I’ll level with you. Until fairly recently, if you told me there were islands with white sandy beaches in Germany, I’d never have believed you. But since moving up to the northern coast, I can tell you that not only do they exist, but they make for a unique and eye-opening trip complete with bags of charm and beautiful views to boot.
Insel Hiddensee is one of the smaller islands off Germany’s Baltic coast, and has long been a favorite destination for Germans up and down the country. As a car-free island that’s not exactly within easy reach, it’s no surprise that Hiddensee has a real holiday feel unlike anything you’ll find on the mainland.
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How To Get To Insel Hiddensee
I visited Hiddensee as part of a long weekend in Stralsund, which arguably provides the easiest starting point for reaching the island from mainland Germany (and a fantastic destination in its own right). Every day from April to October and between Christmas and New Year, Weisse Flot set sail to Insel Hiddensee, stopping off at all three island ports.
The southernmost stop, Neuendorf, can be reached in just 90 minutes, with the northernmost port of Kloster taking 2.5 hours. The ferry we took was absolutely packed, but it made for a very pleasant journey sat out on the top deck. You can also sit indoors where there are plenty of tables and chairs, but COVID restrictions were in place and neither myself or my travel partner fancied sitting so long wearing our masks.
A return ticket from Stralsund (coming back on the same day) was a very reasonable 20.83 EUR per person. The number of departures per day depends on the season, with four in the summer and two or three in autumn and winter. Naturally, if you are only going for a day trip like we did, it makes sense to get the earliest.
My tip here would be to arrive at the harbour as early as you can. On a busy day there will be a large crowd waiting to get on the bus, and the earlier you are the closer you can get to the front. This ensures you will get your choice of seat and won’t end up standing for the fairly long journey.
Which Village To Visit On Hiddensee
As mentioned above, there are three island ports on Hiddensee that also mark the three main villages to explore. If you are just visiting for the day you will only have time to really experience one, so it’s important you make your mind up before you hop on the ferry. Here’s a quick overview of each.
Neuendorf
This village is defined by its long fishing history, with a museum and guided tours that will shine a light on this ancient profession. At the harbour, you can watch today’s fishermen in action. As a protected area, little has changed over the years in Neuendorf, so it’s great for those who want a real taste of history. It’s also a great starting point for hikes, marking the start of a popular 8 km (about 5 mile) route.
Vitte
The largest village on Hiddensee, Vitte is its unofficial capital, with all the key shops and amenities that residents could need. For a good meal, you can’t go wrong here, with plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from. There are also some rather unique attractions, including a puppet theatre and a cinema housed inside a large tent. As well as having a lot going on, Vitte has the benefit of a beachside location, making it the best stop for enjoying a day on the shore.
Kloster
This lively little village is known as the cultural hub of Insel Hiddensee, with lots of small independent art galleries and tiny shops selling handmade items. Kloster is also home to the iconic Dornbusch Lighthouse, which adorns countless postcards and photographs of the island. Kloster provides the best access to the secluded village of Grieben, perfect for hikers and those who want to experience the quiet side of island life.
We opted to concentrate most of our time in Kloster, as for us it offered something for both of us to enjoy. Combining shopping and art with a historical landmark and some beautiful nature trails, it’s a good bet for most families or groups.
My Hiddensee Travel Itinerary
We decided to get off the ferry at Vitte, the second port stop and the largest, most central village on the island. The summer timetable allowed us around 4 hours on Hiddensee, and so we didn’t have too much to waste. The first port of call (excuse the pun) was lunch and a drink at Inselfish, a small, informal fish bar just minutes from the port.
If you want a proper lunch at Vitte, there are plenty of options a tad more impressive, but for a quick bite it certainly hit the spot. After a warming fish soup, fish roll with fresh bread and a couple of glasses of frosty beer we were good to go.
From there, we headed to the coast to begin our journey to our main destination. If you want to mostly spend time in Kloster, as we did, getting off in Vitte gives you the rather nice option of walking alongside the beach instead of sitting on the ferry. In total, the walk takes only 30 minutes along a clearly marked and very flat path.
We aimed for a fairly leisurely day trip, but if you do want to pack more in I’d recommend renting a bike. There are several rental shops in each of the ports (with options for e-bikes if, like me, cycling isn’t your preferred past time).
What To Do In Kloster, Hiddensee
Once I reached Kloster I felt a wave of relaxation wash over me. Leisure is the name of the game in this village, as visitors stroll and cycle languorously through the village, frequently with an adorable pooch in tow.
I began with one of my favourite holiday past times, ‘having a mooch’ around some of the tiny shops that line the sandy streets. Fischuppen was particularly memorable, with unique gifts, artwork, accessories and clothes that would make the perfect memento of your time on the island. After just about managing to keep my wallet closed, it was time to head off and see some of the Hiddensee sights.
Not far up the road I stumbled across a 17th century church with an accompanying graveyard that I decided to have a walk through (a bit morbid, I know, but readers of my post on Triberg will know I have a penchant for the macabre). Buried there is Gerhart Hauptmann, a German writer and Nobel Prize winner who spent every summer on the island. His house still stands in Kloster and is now a museum, still preserved in its original state.
Stopping off at a few small shops and art galleries along the way, I eventually found myself at the foot of the path to the Dornbusch Lighthouse and began my slow amble to the top.
The Dornbusch Lighthouse
One of the most popular attractions in Hiddensee, the Dornbusch Lighthouse was first built in 1887 and has been open to the public for almost 30 years. The walk to the lighthouse is clearly marked from Kloster, and though it’s uphill it doesn’t pose too much of a challenge.
Once there, you are rewarded with some spectacular views, particularly if you can be bothered to climb to the top (I couldn’t, but still thoroughly enjoyed the landscape from the ground). For those willing to exert the extra energy, entry costs €3 a pop, with a child’s ticket coming in at €1.50. Bear in mind that kids under 6 aren’t allowed up, and the lighthouse is closed when wind speeds reach Force 6 or higher.
I took a detour on the way back down to the village, walking a rather roundabout route through the woods that surround the lighthouse. This isnt necessarily something I’d recommend, particularly if you’re short on time, but it was nice to see the village from a different perspective (and my Fitbit certainly thanked me for it).
A bite to eat
Before heading back to the harbour to catch our ferry back, I stopped off for some cake and a beer at the charming Haus Hiddensee. The garden provided the perfect spot to enjoy the summer sun and regain some energy after our afternoon walk. Even though I only stopped for a quick snack, the service was a delight and the pastries worth every calorie.
Top tip: when you’re up in this neck of the woods, you must try one of the many sanddorn, or sea berry, specialities. The berry has a slightly sour, sweet taste that’s not dissimilar to an orange, and is used in northern Germany to make everything from cakes and parfaits to gins and liqueurs.
The boat back to Stralsund
When my departure time neared I wandered over to the port in Kloster, stopping into yet another gallery along the way to admire the local art and buy a few postcards to take home. Getting on board was nowhere near as stressful as it was in Stralsund earlier that day, with just a fraction of the original passengers heading back to the mainland.
It certainly makes sense that most people will have planned a longer stay. While the main part of our trip was focused elsewhere, if you want to get the most out of your Hiddensee visit it’s well worth spending at least a couple of days.
Where To Stay In Hiddensee
When at the port in Kloster you can’t help but notice the striking half-timbered hotel just a stone’s throw away, with a beautiful garden that was packed full of guests when I waited for my boat. Hotel Hitthim was built in 1907, it was restored in the 90s and retains much of its historical charm. Along with 25 rooms, there are also holiday apartments located on the grounds, making it great for groups of all different sizes. If I was ever to go back for a longer stay, Hotel Hitthim would definitely be my first choice.
Is Insel Hiddensee Worth Visiting?
In short, absolutely! It’s a really unique destination and an ideal introduction to the German islands. With a choice of different villages, each with their own distinct character, plus plenty of hiking trails and a gorgeous sandy beach, Insel Hiddensee has a lot to offer. Whether for a short day trip or even a full week, I’d highly recommend a visit.
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